As the SS18 ready-to-wear catwalk shows came to a close in Paris it was clear that, after several seasons in which dainty design and delicate styling have held sway both on and off the runways, statement-making jewellery has made a stunning return to the spotlight.
Following their success on the AW17 runways, earrings continue to dominate with a plethora of shoulder-sweeping cascade looks bringing glamour to the fore. Chiming with the vogue for heirloom-inspired design, many shows saw unique interpretations of vintage styles: from applying classic cuts to a waterfall of oversized stones; iconic chandeliers were revisited in giant proportions.
In contrast to this focus on hero stones, several influential designers opted for pavé finishes applied to eye-catching earrings: versatile oversized hoops and large teardrop-shaped droplets were among the favourite looks.
“The show of sparkling diamond heralds exciting developments for fine jewellery,“ says Maia Adams of Adorn Insight. “At major red carpets this year, we have already seen the impact that fashion jewellery trends are having on occasion wear. We know from experience that exposure to these directional concepts will shape consumer attitudes to diamonds, especially among stylish millennials”.
Necklaces Capture the Imagination
As wardrobe choices move towards lower necklines during the warmer months, neckwear that flatters the neck, face and décolleté is also a key consideration. One style in particular captured the imagination in a big way. “The welcome return of bib necklaces shows that women are ready to embrace bolder looks whilst having fun with the way they personalise their outfits,” says Federica Imperiali of De Beers Forevermark. “Despite their inherent drama, bib necklaces can work very well against a simple luxe t-shirt or a pretty summer dress.”
Examples on the catwalks included lace-like constructions, elaborate looping ropes, minimalist strands, and fanciful drapery. Creating a bold look, the multi-strand necklaces assumed a more edgy appearance as white stones gleamed romantically against a dark metal setting.
Jewellery featured (below):
Narayan Jewellers for De Beers Forevermark Layered Necklace
Forevermark Red Carpet Collection Rose Gold Layered Necklace
Innovative Arm Wear
Although arm wear was less prevalent this season, there was no shortage of innovation on the runway. “In addition to the always-popular cuff, new for this season are an array of wraparound bracelets that hint at a more relaxed way of wearing statement looks,” says Maia Adams. Lavish stone-set rope bracelets and multi-layered strands epitomised this approach, whilst the sizeable cushion and pear shaped stones in some bracelet stacks are sure to be one of spring’s most emulated looks.
Narayan Jewellers for Forevermark Cuff Bracelet
Narayan Jewellers for Forevermark Layered Bangle
Forevermark Red Carpet Collection Encordia Bangle
Diamond Rings Abound
Ring show was higher than in previous seasons, with statement achieved either through multiple pieces worn across several fingers, or large format designs.
Pretty pave-set orbs and fanciful confections suggest that the classic diamond cocktail ring remains a popular option. In terms of noteworthy silhouette updates, minimalist flat bands – both slender and wide – will furnish jewellers with the perfect backdrop against which to showcase scintillating diamonds. The split shank, another adaptable style that saw multiple iterations, will play a starring role too.
Forevermark Red Carpet Collection Cocktail Ring
Forevermark Red Carpet Collection Multi-Finger Ring
Bibhu Mohapatra SS18 Show
Diamond jewellery on the catwalks remains, for now, the exception rather than the rule. But this season, one designer in particular made waves, accessorising his collection with beautiful, rare and responsibly sourced De Beers Forevermark diamonds, thus setting a standard for what can be achieved when fashion-led trends are applied to high-end jewellery designs.
At Bibhu Mohapatra’s show in New York, his ornate runway looks included jewellery crafted with De Beers Forevermark diamonds. Designed by Narayan Jewellers and inspired by celestial bodies, the collection was a prescient edit of the season key jewellery trends: Bib necklaces featuring row-upon-row of exquisite De Beers Forevermark diamonds, stunning cascade earrings, spontaneously stacked bangles and on-point rings including a two-finger ring and a floral ring whose finger-embracing split shank tipped with diamond blossoms make us wish for spring to come early next year.
De Beers Forevermark has previously partnered with Bibhu Mohapatra at New York Fashion Week to beautifully accessorise his Autumn/Winter 2016 & Autumn/Winter 2017 collections. Explore the AW2016 collection and the AW17 collection here.
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